As
was noted in the introduction to this site pijiu is the Chinese
word for beer as written using the Pinyin (romanised) system for
writing Chinese characters. During a year spent living in Changchun
in Northeast China (1991) I became very partial to the local beer.
This may have had something to do with how cheap it was to buy
(one of the first Chinese words I learnt was the one for crate),
but I would like to think it had a lot to do with the fact that
the beer experience in China was a very varied and exciting one.
Given
that most, if not all, of the non-imported beer in China is
lager, one might expect a degree of consistency, but this was
definitely not the case eleven years ago. One of the biggest
mistakes I ever made was to buy a couple of crates of the 'wrong'
beer for a party. It all stemmed from confusion over two very
similar named beers and my extremely poor grasp of Mandarin.
In most cases one might expect this to be a forgivable mistake,
but sadly in this instance it wasn't. The beer was undrinkable.
As with much of the undrinkable beer I sampled while I lived
there it was clearly made using water from one of the luminous
green rivers one sees all too many of.
By
selling their beer for a couple of pennies less than some of
their competitors, sewage breweries did appear to have a market
share, at least in Changchun anyway, but for every nasty beer
there was a very good one. This is not wholly surprising given
the German influence on brewing practices in China. Qingdao
beer, aka Tsingtao beer, which is the most widely known Chinese
beer abroad was developed in breweries built by the German community
in Qingdao. I enjoyed the variety and appreciated the choice.
Unfortunately when I returned to China recently the big Western
breweries had begun to take over the Chinese beer market despite
their pricey beers and their often inferior flavours. I have
no idea how extensive their market control is now. They could
for all I know have already driven the smaller breweries out
of business, but where there is hope there is the pijiu quest...